A Cup o’ Tea
As I prepare to leave Yunnan, Southern China, I realise how much curiosity I have for The Ancient Tea Horse Road.
Over a thousand years of movement and exchange,
Tea moving through mountains on the backs of horses,
To the cuppa tea we love across the islands of Britain and Ireland.
I kept seeing old photographs and images of the tea horses and the ancient road.
And everywhere I went,
In courtyards, hotels and shops,
I noticed great carved wooden tea tables.
Heavy, solid and beautiful.
Ancient with the modern,
With ornate drains built in.
Kettles are self-filling and temperature regulating
And even automised cups rinsers.
Throughout history, boiling water is deliberately spilled and allowed to run away.
Everywhere people make tea on the “chá tái” 茶台table with calm precision,
Water flowing freely,
Warming and cleansing,
Gestures are unhurried.
I’ve been fascinated, but I didn’t understand.
I felt distant.
Then, on my final day in Shaxi, I wandered into a small teahouse in a courtyard.
A chance encounter.
I said simply,
“I would like to drink tea”
And a mutually joyous encounter unfolded.
The woman also became my teacher.
She showed me how to make tea.
She told me that Chinese tea drinking is ritualistic,
“Gongfu cha” 功夫茶, means tea made with skill and care,
Not as performance,
But as something lived, ordinary, daily.
What tea, not oolong,
But local raw Pu’er
Instead of a teapot, she used a “gaiwan” 盖碗,
Not a teapot, but a bowl with a lid,
And an elegant glass jug,
And tiny cups.
The gaiwan surprised and delighted me.
The angle of the lid.
The speed of the pour.
Listening to the leaves.
The gaiwan hides nothing.
You smell the tea change.
Warming cups, waking leaves.
The water spilled everywhere is not careless
Water flows; attention stays
It has been used for centuries because it teaches you how to be present and allows you to connect.
Smell the aroma,
Taste the tea
And chat just like any ordinary day.
The old photos were of the Ancient Tea Horse Road and the transmission of tea from China to the world.
The transmission of tea physically and culturally.
An ancient ritual continues, now alongside modern kettles and technology.
What stayed with me was the sense of continuity.
The lineage is old.
The form is alive.
A ritual that still fits on a table anywhere in the world.
People sitting, pouring, talking.
Tea drunk not for ceremony, but for life, ordinary and everyday
Sarah Heap, Whitstable

